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Togi @ Chinatown (Mosque Street)

Back home, Sunday lunches were always Korean--no exceptions. My father, whose palate for Chinese cuisine and dim sum lunches, grudgingly went along with our weekly ritual. At Seoul Garden, lunch specials like seafood handmade noodles, grilled porgy, and soon du bu jigae were inexpensive but satisfying. The whole package was made even sweeter by an assortment of side dishes that came with every meal: garlic anchovies, chop chae, pickled radish, kim chee cucumbers, marinated fish cake, tofu/egg, and, of course, the requisite won bok kim chee. One of my favorite things to do at lunchtime was to mix some of the chili red broth from the tofu stew (jigae) and a few of the seasoned veggies into a bowl of steamed white rice, and give it a little stir to let the flavors marry with one another. The liquids from the soup and the veggies would give the rice a porridge-like consistency and an exquisite flavor of whole garlic and chili peppers. Smelling heavily of garlic and other things one should not eat before going out in public, every Sunday lunch would be followed up, of course, with a much-needed afternoon nap. Repeat as needed.

The week before I made my way to Singapore, I went back to Seoul Garden one last time. It would, I predicted, be the last Korean feast I would have in a long time (at least until the end of summer). You can imagine then how ecstatic I was to discover that, just a few streets down from my office in Chinatown was a wonderful little Korean eatery along Mosque Street (right across the street from one of Singapore's most well-known yong tau fu joints....I'll cover that in another post):

Togi serves up a wonderful selection of Korean dishes and, as with any Korean restaurant worth its weight in gold, the side dishes are delightful. As I waited for the kitchen to prepare my kim chee pancake and soon du bu jigae (tofu stew), I sipped on some warm brown rice cha (tea) which is sweet and so refreshing. To be honest, I actually prefer Korean rice teas over Chinese or Japanese or English teas. (Million Korean Restaurant and Sorabol back home used to give us complimentary glasses of ice cold sweet rice drink after every meal to cleanse the palate - the cool flavors of the drink did a good job of extinguishing the heat of a fiery Korean feast.)

As I waited, the waitress also came out with a tray of side dishes:


Kim chee tofu, won bok kim chee, seasoned anchovies, marinated fish cake, cucumber kim chee, and Asian chives with chilis were a few of the items served with my meal. (The only downside is they'll charge you for second helpings....which you'll pretty much end up BEGGING for after the first helping. But, whatever.)


Seeing as how I had an especially healthy appetite that day, I decided to order myself a starter: kim chee pancake ($4.50 SGD). Instead of one big pancake as in other Korean restaurants, Togi serves its pancakes in miniature form: one order gets you four mini-patties, which is fantastic since the smaller sized patties means you get to enjoy more of that amazing crunch you only get from the crispy exterior of the pancake. I must say that I have enjoyed many Korean-style pancakes before, but this one was one of the absolute best. The pancakes came out piping hot. The exteriors retained much of that fresh-out-of-the-frying-pan crunch while the interior was nice and sticky with a wonderful mochi-like texture. And, of course, all of this is made better by the fact that you can really taste the garlicky flavors of the kim chee used in this dish.


I had not even finished with my pancakes when the waitress came back carrying a pot of tofu stew ($8-9 SGD). The broth was served at a rolling boil in a traditional black iron pot--the way jigae should be served in a Korean restaurant. Curious as always, I put down my pancakes, took my soup spoon and began to stir the pot to see what treasures lay beneath its bubbling surface. This tofu stew is a real heavyweight in the world of Korean jigaes: it certainly does not skimp on any ingredients. In addition to silken soft tofu bathing in the flavors of this exquisite kim chee broth, you'll find whole clams, oysters, green onions, tomatoes, fresh shrimp, imitation crab meat, cilantro and chunks of fish meat. As much as I loved the pancakes, I could not resist the temptation to dive straight into the stew while it was still at a rolling boil--heaping generous portions of seafood and vegetables into a bowl, making sure of course to ladle a bit of broth over it for a little bit of that amazing Korean flavor.

If you're in the area, Togi should be a definite stop on your list of restaurants. With what little time I have left here in Singapore, I might even make a ritual out of it.

Togi Restaurant / 11 Mosque Street / Chinatown Singapore 59491 / Tel: 6221 0830

Hey Justin - Man, you must have been over joyed to be able to get some of your "comfort food" in Singapore!

Hey Kirk - I don't think there's a single form of Asian food you can't get here in Singapore. More for me! :) Lol.

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